The Living Monument: Stories from Sarai Amanat Khan

The Grand Trunk Road, one of the world’s oldest trade routes, has long connected Agra and Amritsar, transporting people, goods, and stories. The project Documentation of 16th–17th Century Mughal Monuments on the Grand Trunk Road, by the American Institute of Indian Studies, with support from the U.S. Ambassador’s Fund for Cultural Preservation 2023–2025, documented the architecture and oral histories of the region. This exhibition highlights one such site on the GT Road - the Sarai Amanat Khan.

Caravansarais were spacious roadside inns for travelers, traders, and pilgrims. These enclosed courtyards offered shelter, water, and security for people and animals alike, creating safe havens on long journeys. More than rest stops, sarais were hubs of exchange where goods, languages, and cultures met, reflecting the cosmopolitan spirit of the road itself. They were often strategically placed every 20-30 kilometers and marked by distance markers called kos minars, forming an organized network.

Locals believed the mosque held spiritual power - removing its lamps could cause illness, while prayers there brought healing. Oral histories also tell of dancers performing inside at night and secret tunnels once connecting it to other parts of the Sarai.

Residents recall that Sarai Amanat Khan was once a thriving marketplace, with shops and traders filling its courtyard and attracting travelers. The bazaar’s activity made the Sarai an important link in wider trade networks. Several noted that their families had long known of the Sarai for its bustling market, and that relatives had visited it even before they themselves settled there after Partition.

Inside the Sarai, on its southern side, stands a haveli that still carries traces of its former grandeur. Paintings under the eaves show the mansion’s old artistic decoration. The haveli was originally owned by Gurmukh Khatri, a resident who later moved to Amritsar, before being sold to Vijay Mehta’s family. Today, the Mehtas live there and run a school, having repaired and beautified the house while keeping its original structure and character intact.

For the people living in Sarai Amanat Khan today, the site is more than just an old monument - it is their home. Many take pride in its Mughal past and feel a sense of connection to its history. At the same time, some express concern about the neglect of the structure, restrictions on repairs, and the uncertainty of their housing rights. The Sarai stands as a reminder of trade, migration, and community life over centuries.

Locals remember many legends tied to the site. The stepwell’s water was believed to heal sick children. People spoke of queens bathing there, underground tunnels, and even hidden treasures.